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San Francisco Bay Area – My Californian Restaurant Picks – Food blogger on Tour Part 1

I  had the great opportunity whilst working in the San Francisco Bay area  to visit some fantastic restaurants and experience the vibrant food scene – a food blogger’s delight! I did some prior research but always prefer to ask locals for their recommendations, taking advantage of home city knowledge. There were too many interesting places and stories to do it justice in just one post. I will be posting about restaurants, bakeries, coffee culture, the lunch/brunch scene as well as my speed wine tasting/buying challenge in Napa Valley & Sonoma in the coming weeks – so watch this space. Thanks to  John and Elizabeth for these top picks in part 1.

Chez Panisse

Chez Panisse

 

 

 

 

 

 

My first  is the legendary Chez Panisse, in  Berkeley, CA 94709 that just had to be on the top picks list.  Alice Waters- chef, restauranteur, author is a true innovator, influencer & pioneer introducing us to the farm to fork concept in the 1970’s using organic, locally grown ingredients sympathetically  handled  for maximum taste, a sustainable,  healthy environment whilst supporting the local communities.

Chez Panisse Café Kitchen in action

Chez Panisse Café Kitchen in action

 

 

 

 

 

 

I managed to get a reservation at the Chez Panisse Café upstairs, with the flagship restaurant downstairs fully booked for the next month.

Downstairs Restaurant Kitchen -chicken cooking for staff dinner

Downstairs Restaurant Kitchen – chicken cooking for  dinner for Chez Panisse team

 

 

 

 

 

The Bay area is very blogger friendly & I always ask if I can take photos of the food out of respect as I don’t want to spoil the ambience for the other diners or restaurant. I think that degree of respect plus my ‘out of town’ British accent & being such an enthusiastic foodie is important and does help. I was treated like royalty by Mark, the host at Chez Panisse Café who guided me upstairs & downstairs to take photos of the open kitchens & chat to the chefs.

My salad starter being prepared

My salad starter being prepared

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I even watched my appetiser (starter) being prepared! I had a great chat with Leonard my waiter  who is also a playwright & talented quilt maker! My first ( of many) questions was please can he  explain the  ‘Garden lettuces’ appetiser as it is something I have not seen in London, but a few times in California. Leonard described where they were grown and it being a simple,  light option where the lettuce truly is the hero, although I opted for something with a few more ingredients and chose the Cannard Farm rocket with shaved zucchini (courgette), mint, spicy pistachios & Pecorino. It  was light, refreshing, with great layers of complimenting flavours and the slight warming spice & creaminess of the pistachios that brought everything together.

 Cannard farm rocket with shaved zucchini, mint, spicy pistachios & pecorino

Cannard  farm rocket with shaved zucchini, mint, spicy pistachios & pecorino

 

 

Simple, tasty with great textures too – a wonderful salad that sums up the Chez Panisse approach to good ingredients, handled in the right way to create a brilliant dish. I know I am enthusing about a salad but it really was that good! For main course, Leonard suggested the buttermilk fried northern halibut ( one of my favourite fish) in stemperata – an Italian sauce typically made of capers, onion, tomato, garlic and olives. It was served with spinach, mint, almonds & green olives.

Buttermilk- fried northern halibut in stemperata with spinach, mint, almonds, green olives

buttermilk -fried northern halibut in stemperata

 

 

 

 

 

I am not a great fan of ‘battered or coated’ fish however this was something special. Biting through the thin, crisp tasty crust revealed the white flaky, meaty fish, perfectly cooked & seasoned. The accompaniments really  enhanced the fish without overpowering it. I had a glass of Chez Panisse Green & Red Vineyards, Napa Valley Zinfandel wine as I explained as a European visitor I was keen to try local Californian wines if possible and it was the only local red available by the glass. I’m a fan of red wine especially with a meaty fish such as halibut and the slight spiciness of the wine worked with the dish.

Crème fraiche panna cotta with huckleberry coulis, ginger snap & candied  Meyer lemon peel

My dessert of crème fraiche panna cotta with huckleberry coulis, ginger snap topped with  Meyer lemon candied peel was stunning. From the perfect panna cotta ‘wobble’, the  acidity from the crème fraiche, huckleberries and  lemon and the warm spiciness of the ginger snap – a great taste combo! All in all a fantastic meal, brilliant customer service and a thoroughly entertaining evening. I  got chatting with my next door diner who seemed to know all the staff.  Elizabeth, an opera singer, used to work at Chez Panisse – so she did! Leonard, Elizabeth and I chatted over dessert and the conversation covered food, travel and also politics – as the US Election campaign was in its last few weeks and the consequence for the UK voting for Brexit and future implications led to a lively debate. Elizabeth also recommended my next restaurant pick, as her friend Russ, used to be a chef at Chez Panisse for over 20 years.

Camino

Camino

 

 

 

Russell Moore chef/owner opened his restaurant Camino in Oakland,Ca 94610 with his wife & partner Allison Hopelain in 2008. The restaurant decor has a slight nod to the Medieval with its lights and wooden tables but done in a contemporary way.  With slightly dim lighting  you are immediately  drawn to the open kitchen at the back and the enormous fireplace hearths, open fires & piles of wood – this is all about cooking with fire – in it, near it & in front of it.

Open kitchen - cooking with fire - at Camino

Open kitchen – cooking with fire – at Camino

 

 

 

Brandon the chef explained that the oven can reach 600 F (315 C) in some spots and 400 F (200 C) in others so it is so important to get to understand this approach to cooking. There is also a ledge at the front for gentler heating. Alison the host also mentioned that Russ was actually dining in the restaurant and as I am an avid collector of recipe books I could not resist buying the Camino cookbook and getting him to sign it as a memento of the evening.

Woodburning oven at Camino

Wood burning oven at Camino

 

 

 

 

 

 

So what about the food?  Elizabeth raved about the cocktails so I chose a non alcoholic shrub which are bang on trend in London. A shrub is a drink where  drinking strength vinegar is used to macerate fruit to bring out the flavours with a balance of fruity/sweet & acid/sour tastes. It sounds a bit odd but think of fruity salad dressings that work in a similar way. I had the ‘Freedom’ – with rosemary, lime, grapefruit & strawberry. It was fab and  a refreshing way to wake up my taste buds ready for dinner.

Wood oven baked local oysters with absinthe, breadcrumbs & endive salad

Wood oven baked local oysters & Freedom shrub drink

 

 

 

 

 

To start  I had the wood oven-baked local oysters with absinthe, breadcrumbs & endive salad which were delicious.  Oysters are a bit like Marmite – love them or hate them – I am definitely a fan. They are difficult to describe in flavour and texture however I love the quote from a French poet who described the experience as like  ‘kissing the sea on the lips’.  Baked oysters are a great introduction if you are reluctant to try them raw and Camino have created a delicious appetiser. The  anise flavour of the absinthe enhanced  the taste of the oyster along with the hint of smokiness from the wood fire method of cooking, the crunchiness of the breadcrumb topping and slight bitterness of the endive salad –  a great combo showcasing that cooking with fire can really deliver something delicate and delicious.

Grilled duck wing confit with pomegranate, chiles & sesame

Grilled duck wing confit with pomegranate, chiles & sesame

My next course was grilled duck wing confit with pomegranate, chiles and sesame which was a nod  to Russ’s Korean heritage. Just  imagine  a very sophisticated version of Korean Fried Chicken – unctuous, tasty, sticky &  spicy  with a refreshing twist as the pomegranate pearls deliver little flavour bursts that cut through the rich duck meat. This was a taste explosion in the mouth.  I tried to be a bit polite and eat them with a knife and fork but they just needed to be picked up and eaten with hands for the full effect, which I eventually did.  They were sweet, spicy, tangy and absolutely delicious. I had a glass of 2013 Trinafour Carignane, Mendocino County red, again the only local red available by the glass – which worked well with the duck in particular.

Puerh ice cream with tea poached prunes & sesame candy

Puerh ice cream with tea poached prunes & sesame candy

As a tea fan I was intrigued to try the dessert of Puerh ice cream with tea poached prunes and sesame candy.  Puerh tea is a speciality of the Yunnan region of China and is fermented after the tea leaves have been dried and rolled into a ball. It worked really well as an ice cream with its hint of tannin, & smokiness with a creamy, velvety  texture, not overly sweet and complimented the rich, dark fruity prune flavours and sweet sesame candy brittle. I was quite surprised and honoured at the end of the meal to meet Russ &  Allison and the whole Camino crew   which was a lovely gesture as I could thank them in person for a fantastic and memorable meal. I also have the cookbook as a great reminder although my living room gas fire and outdoor BBQ are not quite the same if I do take Russ’s advice  to ‘start a fire’!

My East Bay area  picks – Chez Panisse Café in Berkeley & Camino in Oakland – two amazing Californian restaurants – tune in for part 2!

 

 

 

 

 

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Ciders for a Big Apple Thanksgiving

Turkey Day is almost upon us here in the Big Apple

I thought it might be interesting this year to celebrate the end of the Harvest with a bottle or three of Apple Cider (called Hard Apple Cider, here in the US)  derived from the fruit which is so closely associated with my home State of NY.  After all, apple picking here in NY is a rite of passage leading up to Thanksgiving for kids and adults alike and very much part of the fabric and deep rooted tradition of life here in the Hudson Valley

To get the inside edge on cider, I met up earlier this week with my local expert, the ‘Doctor’ of fine brews himself, Mr Brendon O’Brien at DeCiccos in Armonk, where we quickly got talking about the history of cider in the US and its resurgence in recent years

According to Brendon, the introduction of cider to the US came about because of a shortage in barley to brew beer, so people started looking for something else they could ferment and  turn into alcohol. There were many immigrants from the West Country of England and Normandy, France with long traditions of cider making, so the natural alternative in the North East was  to make apple cider.  Jumping forward a century or two, the modern cider industry in the US started out in NY and Vermont after English and French imports first came onto the market in the 1980s and 1990s with brands like Woodchuck from Vermont appearing.  In the past 5 years cider production has really taken off with the craft beer brewers approach adopted by cider makers and a smorgasbord of craft ciders have emerged driven by American innovation and consumers (mirroring the way in which the US craft brewing industry mushroomed)

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Some of the 100s of ciders available at DeCiccos

We are now seeing producers steeped in the tradition (of US craft beer) looking at French and English traditional cider making but bringing the New World craft beer approach to the party, using apple varietals from both the New and Old Worlds (such as Heirloom and Dabinett). Craft cider producers have also started to use other ingredients, in addition to apples, by adding fruits and herbs as diverse as chipotle peppers, black peppercorns, agave nectar, lime and oranges, to create a different and interesting, quintessentially American drink.  Others have been looking for exclusivity and uniqueness by using apples sourced locally,  such as a ‘single variety’ of apple and sometimes even apples from one orchard alone – ‘single parcel’, like the concept of ‘terroire’ for French Wine which gives the cider they produce  a ‘sense of place’

The final factor Brendon attributes to the resurgence of the cider industry, has been the huge expansion in the market for a Gluten Free alcoholic product, comparable to a crisp refreshing beer.  Consumers are increasingly turning to craft cider, as opposed to Gluten Free beer, as it is more approachable and easier to drink and when it comes down to it, everyone loves an apple!

So, now it’s time to share our  recommendations for the perfect Craft Cider to drink with one’s Thanksgiving Dinner. After much cogitation, debate and discussion and the inspection of the 100s of different ciders available at DeCiccos, Armonk NY store, we honed down our list to 5 brilliant but very different and unique hard ciders hailing from Vermont, Michigan and sunny Florida

8.5% vol – Eden Specialty Ciders, Newport Vermont

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Eden Sparkling Cider – Dry

This effervescent drink, in the ‘dry’ version we tried, is a cider that is going to appeal not just to beer lovers but to wine drinkers too. It fills the gap between champagne wine and cider impeccably. Light and approachable with a delicious dry finish and serious apple flavor. The first swig is just like one’s first  bite into a nice crisp apple making it the perfect bottle with which to welcome your guests to the Thanksgiving meal. It pairs well with those salty snacks

A true apple from the Garden of Eden

Farmhouse Craft Cider 6.5% – Shacksbury, Vergennes, Vermont

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Shacksbury Farmhouse Craft Cider

Shacksbury, a well known cider producer (also based in Vermont) adopts a classic approach to making cider with this fine beverage . They use a mixture of English, French and local varieties of apples, in particular Dabinett from France. Their approach is more of the Normandy style with their ciders being earthy and tannic in structure and dry.

Farmhouse Craft has a floral aroma reminding one of farm flowers with the acidity of green apples. What makes it so interesting to us, is that, rather uniquely, Shacksbury have aged this cider  in old Bourbon and Rye barrels for a short time. This process has infused the finished drink with a gentle touch of the flavors prevalent in Whiskey, a hint of Smoke and spice and a sniff of the vanilla from the oak barrel

The introduction of these interesting flavors plays well off the green apple acidity and produces a well rounded cider finish both clean and refreshing. It works well with the main part of your Holiday meal, a great accompaniment to Turkey, as the drink’s acidity cuts through the fattiness of the meat and that oak barrel vanilla and whiskey compliments the gaminess of the bird

The Americran 6.8% vol – Citizen Cider, Burlington Vermont 

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Citizen Cider – The Americran

Straight from the apples of Happy Valley Orchard, in Middlebury Vermont comes this fabulous pink tinged drink combining Vermont apples and deep scarlet cranberries ubiquitous with the sauce one piles on one’s bird at Thanksgiving

Slightly tart but redolent of the berry fruitiness of the cranberries mixed with apples, it is a medium sweet to dry perfectly balanced cider. Whether you prefer your cider dry or sweet, you would be more than happy to drink this and what’s more, it pairs perfectly with cranberry sauce, the turkey and in particular apple sausage based stuffing. Brendon tells me that he’s even used it in the cranberry reduction for the sauce and basted his turkey with it. After all, good alcohol yields good food! If there was only one cider her could choose, he says this would be the bottle he’d be choosing for his Thanksgiving table

Zombie Killer 5.5% vol – B. Nektar Cider, Ferndale, Michigan

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B. Nektar – Zombie Killer

B. Nektar specializes in mead and cider

Brendon says this producer is really pushing the envelope in applying the American craft beer mentality to all of their products, using beer names, pop culture references and graphic labels similar to those used in American craft beer and this approach is reflected in the choice of ingredients they’ve squeezed into this superb drink

Michigan is known for its tart cherries, which grow in abundance in the State, so B. Nektar decided to use their honey expertise, apples and those tart cherries to come up with this delight, with its wacky name

In the glass it has a pinkish hue, almost salmon in appearance,  with a slight cherry (even melon) aroma, , when imbibed, subtle apple and honey notes leave a significant and creamy texture on the tongue. It marries well with that heavy Thanksgiving meal, still approachable light and refreshing and certainly not too heavy or filling to drink with food. We reckon it would be just perfect served with a cherry or apple pie dessert too

Homemade Apple Pie Cider 5.5% vol – Cigar City, Tampa, Florida

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Cigar City – Home Made Apple Pie

Last but definitely not least, we reach our last cider recommendation. This extraordinary drink hails from the well known craft brewery, Cigar City

Florida, I hear you cry? They grow oranges don’t they? Well yes, correct. However, they now create mean and maverick ciders too and this baby is the most bonkers drink I’ve tried in a long time

Apparently, a few years back Cigar City started up a cider business. The cider production side of Cigar City is actually more or less a ‘one man show’ care of one Mr Jarret Gilbert, although I’d like to call him ‘The Crazy Professor’  for this Frankenstein’s Monster of a drink he’s come up with. On popping the tab to the can one’s nose is met with wild fireworks, the cider smells exactly like fresh baked apple pie. Cinnamon, sweet apples and graham crackers assault ones nasal passages. Then sloshed down that apple pie is joined by a dash of vanilla, just like ice cream soda

This drink is truly the product of the mad scientist of cider, quite astounding. Throw out your mums apple pie and quaff this instead for your Thanksgiving dessert. Perhaps I should not have been so  surprised given Mr. Gilbert has been using coco nibs, vanilla beans, mango and even super spicy habanero peppers in his ciders. This is truly hard cider on the flavor integrating edge

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Try not to be influenced by this guy (Brendon…..do you mind?)

So, it’s time to choose your cider for the festive meal.  Check out our poll below and make your selection. Happy Thanksgiving!!!

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Sweet N’ Sour Beef & Squash Stew – Comfort Cuisine for Post Election Blues

Election Day 2016 is all done. The Donald is going to be our next President.

My new country (yes readers, I am finally becoming an American, after years of living here as an ex-pat) is taking a giant leap into the unknown

In my opinion, with change, be it to the cold season, or of one’s government, there is no better way to put a smile on your face and a warm glow in your tummy, than a hearty stew using seasonal ingredients. So I decided to make one this evening using  the humble ubiquitous squash, which is so ubiquitous with Fall here in the USA

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Butternut Squash chopped on the board

However, I do like a twist on the mainstream and decided to cook my squash stew based on a recipe by Linda Dangoor, in her ‘Flavors of Babylon’, a fantastic book where she collates authentic home recipes handed down by her family from Iraq and from Iraqi Jewish cuisine

The subtle flavors in this slow cooked Sweet and Sour Stew and Squash dish are fabulous.

Tender aromatic meat, infused with ginger, garlic, citrus and tomato with bright orange chunks of nut sweet squash. A perfect calming antidote for the tumultuous events of this past week

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Ingredients Assembled

Ingredients

  • 1.25lb Stewing Beef (cubed into 1″- 1.5″ cubes)
  • 1.25 ib Butternut Squash (peeled and cubed into 1″ cubes)
  • 2.5″ ginger root (peeled and finely diced)
  • 1 large clove of Garlic (roughly chopped)
  • 1 medium yellow onion (roughly chopped)
  • 1 x 14 oz tin of chopped tomatoes
  • 3 x large tbsp of Golden Raisins (sultanas)
  • 10 Prunes (roughly diced
  • Juice of 3 small lemons
  • Zest of 2 oranges
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 3 tbsp sugar
  • 2 tbsp Salt to taste

Method

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Sealing the Beef

  • Warm the olive oil and saute the ginger, garlic and onion until soft over medium heat
  • Next, increase the heat, add the the meat, stir and sear until the beef is sealed
  • Then, add the chopped tomatoes plus juice and heat until all the liquid has evaporated, keeping the ingredients on the move to prevent them sticking
  • Add boiling water to cover the meat mixture, bring to the boil, cover the pot and cook on a low to medium heat for around 45 minutes, or until the meat has softened. Take care to add additional water, if required, to avoid it drying out
  • Now add the prunes, raisins / sultanas, zest, sugar and salt stir and bring to the boil adding the squash.
  • Lower the heat to low medium and cook for another 15-20 minutes or so
  • Finally, add the lemon juice checking the flavor then cook for another 15 minutes or so
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Penultimate Stage of the Stew – Next add the Squash and Lemon Juice

Serve with Basmati Rice, tuck in and enjoy your comfort food straight out of Babylon from the distant shores of the River Tigris and don’t forget, whatever your political creed, the Sun still comes up in the morning and the food will be just as delicious this Fall, as last and the Fall to come!